Marketing pages love to say things like expert installation and quality craftsmanship. This page does the opposite. Here is exactly how we install windows, roofing, siding, and exterior paint on your home — the specific techniques, materials, and inspection steps that determine whether your project lasts 25 years or fails in 2.
With every Glacier project, the material you choose matters — but how it is installed matters more. A premium Anlin window installed incorrectly will leak and fail long before a basic window installed correctly. That is why our crews follow the same documented process on every job, and every install gets a final walk-through before we call it done.
Our lead installers average over 15 years of direct field experience. Every crew is employed by Glacier (not subcontracted out) so we control quality end-to-end. We carry full liability insurance and workers compensation — something any contractor in Texas should be able to show you on request.
Window Installation — Step by Step
Window installation is where contractors cut corners most often. Here is the Glacier process in detail:
1. Pre-Install Assessment
Measure each opening at top, middle, bottom, left, right, and diagonals — rough openings are rarely perfectly square
Inspect the existing frame, trim, and siding for rot or water damage
Document any damage with photos before work starts
Order custom sizes when openings are non-standard (we do not force-fit windows)
2. Full-Frame vs Pocket Replacement Decision
There are two ways to replace a window. We pick the right one for your situation, not the fastest one.
Pocket replacement (insert): Existing frame stays in place, new window fits inside it. Faster and cheaper, but only appropriate when the existing frame is structurally sound and sealed properly. Most homes with original 1980s-2000s windows qualify for this.
Full-frame replacement: Remove the entire window including the frame and nail fins. Required when there is rot, water damage, or air infiltration through the existing frame. More expensive but necessary for long-term performance.
We tell you honestly which one your home needs. Some contractors default to pocket replacement on every job because it is faster — that is not how we work.
3. Flashing and Sealing
Flashing tape: We apply 3M 8067 flashing tape to the sill first, then the jambs, then the head. Butyl-based tape bonds to wood, OSB, and house wrap in Texas heat without lifting.
Backer rod + sealant at perimeter: For gaps over 1/4 inch, we use closed-cell backer rod before sealant to prevent three-sided adhesion failure.
Low-expansion window foam: Dow Great Stuff Window & Door foam (low-expansion only — regular foam expands too aggressively and bows window frames).
Exterior sealant: OSI Quad Max or equivalent polyether sealant for the exterior perimeter. UV-resistant and paintable.
4. Setting the Unit
Shim at all four corners plus at meeting rails — never rely on foam alone to hold position
Check plumb and level on all axes with a 4-foot level before fastening
Fasten per manufacturer specification (Anlin and Marvin both specify fastener size, spacing, and penetration depth)
Operate the window before sealing — if it binds when closed, adjust shims before closing up the install
5. Finish and Inspection
Interior trim installed with mitered corners, glued and nailed
Exterior caulk smoothed and tooled (not just bead-applied and left)
Water test from garden hose on every window before job close-out
Homeowner walk-through with operation demo on every unit
Manufacturer warranty card activated and registered
Roofing Installation
Before the New Roof Goes On
Full tear-off to the decking (we do not install over old shingles)
Inspect decking for rot or sagging; replace any bad sheathing (priced transparently — not a surprise add-on)
Install new synthetic underlayment (GAF FeltBuster) — not 15 lb felt
Install ice and water shield in valleys, around penetrations, and along eaves (minimum 36 inches up from eave)
Replace or re-flash all pipe boots, vents, chimney step flashing, and valley metal
Shingle Installation
Starter strip at eaves and rakes — not shingles cut down
Manufacturer-specified nail pattern (6 nails per shingle for high-wind rating in Central Texas)
Nail placement in the common bond line — not too high, not too low
Proper shingle offset and staggering
Ridge vent installation where attic ventilation requires it
Ridge cap shingles installed last with longer nails
Final Steps
Magnetic sweep of the yard to pull any dropped nails
Photo documentation of all penetration flashings
Final roof inspection by the lead installer before the crew leaves
Manufacturer warranty registration
James Hardie Siding Installation
James Hardie has the most rigorous install specifications of any siding manufacturer. Elite Preferred Contractor status requires annual training and audits. Here is what that looks like on your job:
All cuts made with fiber cement-rated blade to prevent silica dust and chip-out
6-inch minimum clearance to grade, 2-inch minimum clearance to roof
Stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails only (specified by James Hardie — not regular galvanized)
Blind nailing preferred over face nailing for clean appearance
Proper overlap and course alignment checked with string line every few courses
Corner trim installed with back-caulking to prevent water intrusion behind trim
J-channel and starter strip per James Hardie spec
ColorPlus Technology touch-up paint matched to exact batch number for any field cuts
Exterior Painting
Surface Preparation (70% of the Job)
Pressure wash entire exterior at appropriate PSI (different for wood, Hardie, masonry)
Scrape all loose and peeling paint to bare substrate
Sand feathered edges smooth
Caulk all cracks and gaps with Sherwin-Williams 950A or equivalent
Prime all bare wood and problem areas with SW ProBlock or Extreme Bond primer
Application
Two coats of Sherwin-Williams Duration exterior paint (never one coat, even on repaint)
Application via brush, roll, or spray depending on surface
No painting below 50 degrees F or above 90 degrees F
No painting in direct sun on south and west elevations — timing matters in Texas
Minimum 4 hours between coats, longer in humid conditions
Frequently Asked Questions
Are your installers employees or subcontractors?
All our install crews are employed by Glacier Home Exteriors. This means we control the training, the quality, and the warranty follow-up. When you see the same faces on a job from start to finish, that is intentional.
How much experience do your lead installers have?
Our lead installers average over 15 years of field experience in their specific trade. Our team has 50+ years of combined industry experience across roofing, siding, windows, and painting.
Do you do full-frame or pocket window replacement?
Whichever is right for your home. Pocket (insert) replacement works when the existing frame is sound. Full-frame is required when there is rot or water damage, or when you want to change window size. We inspect first and give an honest recommendation.
What happens if something fails a year after install?
Call 254-265-8898. We come out and diagnose the issue at no charge. If it is a workmanship issue, we fix it under our workmanship warranty. If it is a product issue, we handle the manufacturer claim for you and do the repair.
Are you insured and bonded?
Yes — general liability, workers compensation, and auto coverage. We can email proof of insurance before you sign anything.
How do I verify your manufacturer certifications?
GAF and James Hardie both maintain public contractor finders. Search our business name on GAF.com or JamesHardie.com to confirm current certification status.
See the Process on Your Home
Get a free virtual estimate. We will walk through what your project would look like — the materials, the process, and a written quote.
